How to make perfect popcorn, the old-fashioned way: Pour a little oil into a pan - ideally a well-loved one with a lid - and warm it gently. Add the popping corn, just enough to cover the base of the pan in a single layer (it will expand up to eight times its size). Shake the pan lightly to coat the kernels in oil, then place the lid on and turn the heat up. The oil should be hot, but never smoking. As soon as the popping begins, keep the pan moving with gentle shakes. When the sound slows to just an occasional pop, turn off the heat. For a savoury touch, add a pinch of salt and shake to coat. Or, for something sweeter, remove the popcorn and, in the same pan, melt a little icing sugar with a splash of water until it turns into a light caramel. Return the popcorn to the pan and toss gently until coated.